Original written by Mike (Slow_AT_Talon) Mysterylectronic@aol.com
Pictures and edited by Ivan (Chamuko) Chamukogs_t@yahoo.com
 
Pre-Mod Prep
Prior to starting removed the battery, battery box, intake, and the bolt
connecting the shifter cable and the clip that holds it in. If you have your washer fluid reservoir, taking it out might free up some room for this mod. 
 
I also had a donor car and had all the nuts, bolts and other parts from that. If you don’t have a donor car (I didn’t have one - Chamuko) check out the ever increasing parts list here. 
 
Some people need more parts then others, so I you need a part or ended up replacing one let me know. This would be a great help to others. If you can include part numbers and where you got the part, that would be very helpful also.  
 
 
 
Hopefully this will be adequate for all my fellow DSM'ers – Slow_AT_Talon
 
 
Center Console
 
I started with the shifter assembly, first you are going to remove the center Console and the two bottom panels beneath the center console on either side. 
 
(pic of center console)  (pic of side panels)
 
Then disconnect the shifter cable by pulling out the pins (pic of shifter cable ends), save the pins (pic of pins). You also need to disconnect the other (2) cables (they are the cables for the ignition lock and the brake pedal release for the shifter) (pic of lock cables). 
Then disconnect the clip that holds the cable in place (pic of c-clip). You don’t have to remove the 2 lock cables (I didn’t).
You then need to remove the (4) 12mm bolts connecting the assembly to the Chassis (pic of 4 shifter bolts) . Then unplug the harness connected to the shifter Bracket (pic of harness), remove the bracket.You can now install the new shifter assembly.  
You need to use the bolts from the M/T as they are a different length (about 1 mm longer). Now look behind your stereo and HVAC control area. A few inches before the firewall bolted to the bracket on the floor should be your TCU. Unbolt it (should be a ## bolt) and unplug it (most have the harness going in from the bottom) PIC of TCU .Again, you don’t have to remove it, but hey why not. I then removed the (2) 12mm bolts holding the shifter cable to the firewall directly behind the radio location(pic of shifter cables at fire wall), pull the shifter cable out (towards the cabin) and put the new ones in tighten the two bolts back down. You can now connect the cables to the shifter 
Assembly, the left on goes to the one that controls the side to side movements and the right on controls the front to back. Use the pins
You removed before to hold the shifter cables in place, you can now put all the panels back. 
 
You’re done here. 
 
Not hard at all Hugh?
 
Pedals
 
My next step was the clutch pedal (this is harder then the shifter assembly) to prepare this step you may want to start in the engine compartment. If you have (4) relays you may have to move them over and only use one bolt on the bracket (pic of relay bracket). There are plenty of bolts and bolt holes to move it over some. Then peel of the (2) silver stickers covering the bolt holes that mount the clutch fluid reservoir (pic of silver stickers). Now it's back inside the car, if you look up under the dash all the way to left you will notice two cut-outs in the material (one on the firewall and one on the top)(pic of fire wall and material cut offs) pull both off both of the cut-outs. You will notice
on the firewall side there are (3) circular cut-outs going through only one part of the firewall these are the sizes the holes need to be (pic of fire wall holes). I used a drill and different sized drill bits and I have heard of people using a dremel but my drill bits were very fast. I used the flat hole-saw bits. It's not important if the holes are bigger than the cut-outs as the clutch master cylinder mounts to the pedal bracket (mostly). You should now check to see if the clutch master cylinder fits and trim if necessary. Now mount the clutch pedal by using the (2) bolts that you should get from the M/T car (again M8 1.25 pitch). Put the (2) 12mm bolts in first then slide the clutch pedal bracket in and push it as far up to the firewall as possible then tighten the bolts down. Go back to the engine compartment and place the master cylinder in the new holes and then put the nut on the bolt facing you and mount your fluid reservoir (pic of fluid reservoir mounted). Go back inside the car and place the other nut on the bolt facing you. You do not have change the brake pedal, but you do have to cut
The left side to allow the clutch pedal to travel forward and to make sure that you don’t slam on the brake instead of pressing the
Clutch. I cut mine with a grinder. If you do have the pedal, it is as simple as unbolting the old one and bolting in the new one (pic comparing pedals). Remember to disconnect the brake light switch and reconnect it once the new pedal is in (pic of switch). Also remember to unhook and re-install the spring that brings the brake pedal back up (pic of spring). It should be hooked on to the dash, somewhere in the direction of the steering wheel column.
 
Again you are done here, for the most part at least. 
 
Now it really starting to look like a stick shift but here is the hardest part. Actually getting the manual transmission in and the auto out. Unless you rebuilt your engine at the same time, then it’s just another step.
 
You might also want to disconnect your battery if you already have not done so. Taking out the battery and its tray will be very handy, but not necessary. I know I did.
 
Transmission
 
Start by dropping out the front mount and frame (cross member) (pic of front mount) that it is attached to and drop your exhaust from the header. Take out your axels (there are plenty of good write ups, like Corbin’s remember to add link and give credit.)And take out the (2) 18mm bottom bolts holding on the plate (pic of transmission access plate) covering the bolts connecting your torque converter take off (4) bolts with an 18mm wrench (pic of taking off torque converter), you 
Will need to spin the crankshaft using a 19mm to access all these bolts (pic of crank bolt).  Once those are off you can undo the rest of the 18mm (motor mounts? there should be (2) more under the car and you may have brackets my car did not (pic). Undo the other 18mm there are (2) on top (pic) and (1) more on the front (pic) and the starter bolts? Mm. The transmission should separate a little if not pry on it some if not still check to see if there are more bolts I didn't mention or that you missed. Now support the transmission with a jack (preferably with a transmission support attachment, or a transmission jack.) and undo the back mount, I suggest taking off the (1) 14mm bolt as you do not have to use this mount bracket again you will need a 14mm wrench and socket for this part (pic of rear mount).Once that’s done you can remove the other transmission mount you will need a 17mm
Wrench and socket. I recommend taking out the (3) bolts connecting to the mount to the transmission first then the nut and bolt connecting it
To the car as you will reuse this mount (pic of drivers side mount).
Connect your modular clutch with the bolts that were connected to the torque converter, slide on your Clutch release bearing to the transmission (the shaft with splines) and don't forget to grease it (the bearing) or you have a horrible noise ( but not too much or you might ruin the clutch). Then slide the shifter fork on. The little part through the rubber boot in the bell housing and the bigger part against the release bearing. (Picture of fork)Now you can put in the transmission. 
My friend and I picked it up and slid it on but you should probably use a jack, the hardest parts are being able to get it to slide on,
Getting the differential onto the right part of the cross-member, and getting it to line up with the first bolt hole. Then bolt it up using the same process you took it off with (the auto one). Reinstall your mounts and new transmission mount bracket (for the rear) (pic of auto vs. manual bracket). Now you should connect the clutch line and 
Slave cylinder ( as you can see I used an upgraded unit)( pic of clutch line and slave cylinder)there are (2) 12mm bolts that connect it to the transmission.(pic of slave near transmission) bleed the clutch slave cylinder with the 10mm bleeder valve and after its bled check for proper operation, if all is well proceed. Connect the shifter cables to the transmission. you will need washers, clips, and pins to connect them, I did the clips first, you need to pull the cable back and feed it through the holes for them(pic of transmission cable clips) then pull it forward and push the clip on and possibly bang it down with something. Now slide
The ends over there poles and place a washer over them after that place pins in the holes of the poles (pic of washers and pins in cables transmission side). Replace axels, front motor mount and other stuff that you removed.
 
Done with the messy and heavy stuff. So close …
 Electrical / Wiring
 
I then proceeded to do all the electrical stuff and I had the M/T computer so I replaced mine with that. You should ideally use one from a car with the same date of manufacture as yours (year and MTX).
 
The speed sensor is kind of ghetto but it works (pic of soldered speed sensor). If you don’t have the harness and clip you can solder it on , I then used liquid electrical tape to make sure.(pic of speed sensor done) I piggy-backed each wire to the corresponding wire on the
PCM plug (Yellow with white stripe to same color, yellow to yellow and black with green to same on PCM/ECU plug) You can remove the TCM you don’t need it anymore ( remember that ecu looking thing near the shifter cables and fire wall?). I did not do the reverse sensor yet as it does not bother me. 
 
BOOM your Done!
 
Double check everything…
 
Did you fill the transmission back up? You should use Mopar / Chrysler stuff ONLY. Part # 
 
 
I then started it up and
Took it for a spin. What a weird feeling, my car but not!
I would highly recommend it! 
 
Congratulations!

 Enjoy your New Car!

 
Anyone want to report changes to be more accurate feel free to e-mail in to help more 2GNT’rs.
 
Also if you have pictures or tips e-mail them in.