Written by Mike (Slow_AT_Talon) Mysterylectronic@aol.com
Pics by Ivan ( Chamuko ) Chamukogs_t@hotmail.com
Prior to starting I removed the battery, battery box, intake, and the bolt
connecting the shifter cable and the clip that holds it in
(I also do not have my washer fluid reservoir in my engine compartment)
I also had a donor car and had all the nuts, bolts and other parts from that.
Hopefully this will be adequte for all my fellow DSM'ers
 
 
I started with the shifter assembly, first you are going to remove the center
console  and the two bottom panels beneth the center console on
either side then disconnect the shifter cable by pulling out the pins, save the
pins. You also need to disconnect the other (2) cables (they 
are the cables for the ignition lock andthe brake pedal release for the
shifter)(pic), then disconnect the clip that holds the cable in place. 
You then need to remove the (4) 12mm bolts  connecting the assembly to the
chassis, Then unplug the harness conected to the shifter 
bracket, remove the bracket. You can now install thethe new shifter assembly you
need to use the bolts from the M/T as they are a 
different length. I then removed the (2) 12mm bolts holding the shifter cable to
the firewall directly behind the radio location(pic),
pull the shifter cable out and put the new ones in tighten the two bolts back
down. You can now connect the cables to the shifter 
assembly, the left on goes to the one that controls the side to side movements
and the right on controls the fron to back. Use the pins
you removed before to hold the shifter cables in place, you can now put all the
panels back.
 
My next step was the clutch pedal (this is harder then the shifter assy.) To
prepare this step you may want to start in the engine compatment.
If you have (4) relays you may have to move them over and only use one bolt on
the bracket(pic).  Then peel of the (2) silver stickers
covering the bolt holes that mount the clutch fluid reservoir. Now it's back
inside the car, if you look up under the dash all the way to left
you will notice two cut-outs in the material (one on the firewall and one on the
top)(pic) pull both off boh of the cut-outs. you will notice
on the firewall side there are (3) circular cut-outs going through only one part
of the firewall these are the sizes the holes need to be (pic).
I used a drill and different sized drill bits and I have heard of people using a
dremel but my drill bits were very fast. I used the flat
hole-saw bits. It's not important if the holes are bigger than the cut-outs  as
the clutch master cylinder mounts to the pedal bracket.
You should now check to see if the clutch master cylider fits and trim if
necessary. Now mount the clutch pedal by using the (2) bolts
that you should get from the M/T car. Put the (2) 12mm bolts in first then slide
the clutch pedal bracket in and push it as far up to the
firewall as possible then tighten the bolts down. Go back to the engine
compartment and place the master cylinder in the new holes
and then put the nut on the bolt facing you and mount your fluid reservoir
(pic). Go back inside the car and place the other nut on the
 bolt facing you. You do not have change the brake pedal but you do have to cut
the left side to allow the clutch pedal to travel 
forward and to make sure that you dont slam on the brake instead of pressing the
clutch. I cut mine with a grinder.
 
Now it really starting to look like a stick shift but here is the hardest part.
Start by dropping out the front mount and frame
that it is attached to and drop your exhaust from the header. Take out your
axels and take out the (2) 18mm bottom bolts
holding on the plate(pic) covering the bolts connecting your torque converter
take off (4) bolts with an 18mm wrench(pic), you 
will need to spin the crankshaft using a 19mm to access all these bolts.  Once
those are off you can undo the rest of the 18mm
there should be (2) more under the car and you may have brackets my car did
not(pic). Undo the other 18mm there are (2) on top (pic)
and (1) more on the front (pic) and the starter bolts ?mm. The tranny should
seperate a litte if not pry on it some if not still check to 
see if there are more bolts I didn't mention or that you missed. Now support the
tranny with a jack and undo  the back mount, I suggest 
taking off the (1) 14mm bolt as you do not have to use this mount braket again
you will need a 14mm wrench and socket for this part(pic).
Once thats done you can remove the other tranny mount you will need a 17mm
wrench and socket. I recommend taking out the (3) bolts
connecting to the mount to the tranny first then the nut and bolt coneecting it
to the car as you will reuse this mount(pic).
Connect your modular clutch with the bolts that were connected to the torque
converter, slide on your 
Clutch release bearing to the tranny and don't forget to grease it or you have a
horrible noise. Now you can put in the transmission,
My friend and I picked it up and slid it on but you should probably use a jack,
the hardest parts are being able to get it to slide on,
getting the differential onto the right part of the cross-member,and getting
line up with the first bolt hole then bolt it up using the same
process you took it off with. Reinstall your mounts and new tranny mount
bracket. Now you should connect the clutch line and 
slave cylinder there are (2) 12mm bolts that connect it to the tranny bleed the
clutch slave cylinder with the 10mm bleeder valve  
and after its bled check for proper operation, if all is well proceed. Connect
the shifter cables to the tranny you will need washers,
clips, and pins to conect them, I did the clips first, you need to pull the
cable back and feed it through the holes for them(pic) then pull it
forward and push the clip on and possibly bang it down with something. Now slide
the ends over there poles and place a washer
over them after that place pins in the holes of the poles. Replace axels, front
mount and other stuff that you removed.
 
I then proceeded to do all the electrical stuff and I had the M/T computer so I
replaced mine with that. The speed sensor is kinda
ghetto but it works. I piggy-backed each wire to the corresponding wire on the
PCM plug (Yellow with white stripe to same color,
yellow to yellow and black with green to same on PCM plug) You can remove the
TCM you dont need it anymore. I did not
do the reverse sensor yet as it does not bother me. I then started it up and
took it for a spin. What weird feeling, my car but not!
I would highly recommend it! 
 
Anyone want to make changes to be more accurate feel free to modify it in anyway
to help more prople