Monteverde to La Fortuna Tuesday, March 23
We woke up at dawn at the Pension Santa Elena, ate some bread and avocado for breakfast, then caught a "taxi" (a mud-splattered Jeep) to the stables. We waited awhile (Tico time strikes again) and finally met our guide, who didn't speak any English. He was going to lead us on horseback across the mountains, from Santa Elena to the town of La Fortuna. The horses were docile and healthy-looking - and big. Once I climbed up into the saddle, I felt very unsteady, as the horse shifted its weight under me, but at least I didn't immediately fall off like I thought I might.
Talina, who had ridden horses before, instructed me how to lean backwards when going downhill and forwards across the horse's neck when going uphill. This was vital information, since the path we traveled was muddy and steep, pocketed with foot-deep potholes. I felt sorry for the horse, who was often submerged up to her knees in rich black mud.
Traveling on horseback was jolting and scary at first, but after half an hour I got into the flow of things. Unlike riding a bus, riding a horse took just enough concentration (for me, anyway) to keep things interesting. Talina was relaxed enough to ride alongside the guide and ask him questions in Spanish, although she confessed later that she couldn't understand most of his replies.
Towards the highest point of the pass between the mountains, we had a gorgeous view. We stopped there to have a light lunch of sandwiches and mangos. Black and white cows frolicked in hilly fields, surprisingly nimble compared to the my impression of cows as stereotypically placid and lazy. The guide commented, "Bella vista," and Talina and I agreed emphatically.